Sufferings In Africa

by James Riley

Chapter XXIII

Sheick Ali out-manoeuvred again by Rais bel Cossim —they set off in the night—meet with Sidi Hamet and his brother, .accompanied by some Moors with mules sent by Mr. Willshire for the sufferers to ride on—occurrences on the road—meeting with Mr. Willshire near Swearah or JMogadore—they go into that city—are ordered before the Bashaw—are cleansed, clothed, and fed, by their deliverer.

After supper Rais bel Cossim told me to keep a good look out; that he would watcli the motions of Sheick Ali, who he still feared was plotting against our liberty. After I had informed my enfeebled and desponding companions that we were now out pf danger from the Arabs, (having come about fifty miles from Stuka) and in the emperor of Morocco’s dominions, and, consequently, sure of being liberated, and that too in a very few days; and after telling them tha1*vfe must bear up under our fatigues with fortitude, and exert our remaining strength and spirits, in order to reach Mogadore, we all laid ourselves down to rest; and my companions, though they had the bare ground for their bed, yet as they were wrapped up in cloaks, and had their stomachs well filled with good and nourishing food, soon fell asleep. As for myself, fear, hope, and various other sensations, kept me awake, and I could not close my eyes, but waited with extreme anxiety for the appearance of Rais bel Cossim. Soon after midnight

Rais came, and finding me awake, he roused me and the owners of the camels, and requested them to get ready to go on speedily, and then told me that on entering this place, while he was busied in feeding his mule, Sheick Ali had stolen off privately to the town, and visited the governor, who had agreed, on his representation, to take us into custody in the morning at day-break, and assist in extorting what money the Sheick demanded; or to connive at our being stolen and carried back by Sheick Ali’s men to Suse. “ I have learned this (said he) from an old friend of mine, whom I met and commissioned to watch Sheick Ali’s Hhotions when we were coming into this place: awaken your shipmates: you must depart this instant: the drivers, know the road; it is very rocky: yoi^must tell your men to hold on as tight as possible and remember, if you are four leagues from this town before daylight, your liberty is secured, if not, you will be again the most miserable of slaves. Encourage your men to use their utmost exertions, and I hope, with God’s blessing, in three days more you will be in Swearah with your friend. I will join you as soon as possible.” The camels were by this time ready: we were placed on them, and proceeded up the rocky steeps as fast as possible, but with the most profound silence. Sleep seemed to have literally sealed the eyes of all the Moors in the lower town, and in the batteries near the path through which we passed; these batteries rose one above another like an amphitheatre towards the fortress. The quadrangular walls of the town and fortress of Santa Cruz, or Agader, crowned the summit of this mountain, on our right, and stand, from appearance, not less than fifteen hundred feet above the level of the sea. We went fast forward, in profound silence, which was not in the least disturbed by the tread of the camels, because their feet are as soft as sponge or leather: only the hoarse roaring of the surf breaking among the rocks below us, startled the ear, and excited in my mind frightful images of direful shipwrecks, and the consequent miseries of the poor mariner driven on this inhospitable coast.

We had been hurrying on as fast as possible for about two hours, and Jiad gained the distance of probably three leagues from Santa Cruz, when our ears were struck with the clinking sound of iron against the stones, winch announced the approach of horses or mules that were shod; and in an instant, though dark, we discovered clos^by us on our right a considerable number of men riding on mules, and passing the other way. Not a word was uttered on either side, nor could the faces of any be distinguished, though we were not more than three or four yards asunder. A thought darting across my mind, suggested to me that it was my old master:

I instantly called out Sidi Harriet! and was quickly answered —ascoon Riley? (who is it, Riley?) the whole company stopped in an instant; and the next moment I had the joy of kissing the hand of my old master and benefactor. Sidi Mohammed, Seid, and Bo-Mohammed, were in his company, together with three or four Moors, whom our kind friend had sent down, charged with the money and mules for our ransom and conveyance. The principal Moor, and who had charge of the money until we were delivered over according to the wish of Sidi Hamet, spoke Spanish fluently: he wanted to inquire of me where Rais bel Cossim was: I told him at Santa Cruz: Sidi Hamet wished to question me himself, and asked me “ where is Sheick Ali ?” and when I informed him that I had left him in Santa Cruz, in company with Rais bel Cossim and Muley Ibrahim, he was satisfied; and said Sheick Ali was a bad man, and did not fear God. Seid also pretended to be much rejoiced at our being on the road to Mogadore, and yet I thought I could discover that he was trying to play a deep game of artful duplicity: but old Sidi Mohammed was in truth rejoiced to find us in the emperor’s dominions. Having now been absolutely delivered over to Bel Mooden, the Moor who had charge of the money, he paid it over to Sidi Hamet, and three of us were mounted on mules, and proceeded on, while all those whom we met, went towards Santa Cruz, except the three Moors who owned and brought the mules down for us to ride <5n, and who remained and proceeded northward with us.

All the time we had stopped to make the necessary arrangements above mentioned, the owners of the camels were urging us to go forward, thereby showing a disposition to obey the orders of Rais bel Cossim, and would not for a long time believe that those who stopped us were not our enemies. The backs of the mules were covered with large saddles made of coarse cloth, stuffed with straw, and formed very broad, so as to fit their shape, and reached almost from their heads to their tails : this kind of saddle is too broad for a man to attempt to stride. ( Over the saddles were placed what the Moors and Arabs call a shwerry, which is made like a double basket, and formed of palm leaves woven together like mat work: each of these baskets might contain about two bushels: they are attached together by a mat woven in with and like the rest, of about a foot and a half in width, sufficiently strong to bear a burden, and long enough to let them hang down easily on the sides of the mules : the outer part of this shwerry is held up by means of a rope passing through the handle on one side, and tied to that on the other, passing over the mule’s back. In this shwerry, they carry their provisions, merchandise, and spare clothing, (if any they have) when on their journeys. The rider sits on the saddle above the shwerry, with both legs on one side, balancing his body exactly, and rides extremely easy, as he can shift his position at pleasure, and the mule’s gait is an easy, fast ambling walk, which they are taught when Very young; their motion is Very slight, and was a seasonable relief to our almost dislocated limbs: the change, with respect to jolting, was so great from the camel to the mule, that we could not keep our eyes open from mere drowsiness, and Burns getting asleep, dropped off his mule, and was so Badly hurt as to be from that time incapable of supporting himself; so that a Moor was obliged to sit before or behind him, and keep him on, driving the mule at the same time time: and this was continued during the remainder of our journey.

We had proceeded in this way until about ten o’clock, when we were joined by Rais bel Cossim, Sidi Hamet, Seid, Sidi Mohammed, and Bel Moo- den. I now inquired of Rais what had become of Muley Ibrahim and Sheick Ali, with their attendants, and he told me they had set out for their respective homes. I wanted to know all the particulars of their proceedings, and Rais promised to satisfy me after breakfast, which we now stopped to eat, (viz. biscuit and butter) near a well that afforded us good water, though nearly on a level with the sea. After we were again mounted, he began to relate as follows. “ When my friend told me of Sbeick Ali’s plan, I stole away softly, and came and sent you off without the SheickV knowledge; but Muley Ibrahim was in the secret, knd remained with the Sheick to prevent alarm if he should awake during my absence.” Rais bel Cossim further told me in substance, that as soon as we were on our journey, he returned and b ud himself down to sleep across the door-way, where Sheick Ali slept, and in such a manner as y make it impossible for the Sheick to go out jrfthout alarming him; the Sheick awoke at the dawn of day, and finding himself blockaded in the house, awakened Rais, and told him that they had better wait on the governor this morning, to which Rais consented, but wanted to see the slaves first, so as to have some coffee made: this was agreed on; but when they came where we had slept, and found none of us there, nor the camel, nor their drivers, Rais broke out into the most violent passion apparently; accused the Sheick of having robbed him of his slaves during the night, and said he would instantly have him seized and delivered up to the governor to be punished according to the Moorish law. Muley Ibrahim, who knew the, whole affair, joined with Rais, protesting he could no longer hold friendship with a man who was capable of committing such an act, which he considered to be one of the Worst breaches of faith that ever disgraced a man of his (the Sheick’s) high character. Sheick Ali was thunderstruck by this unexpected event—declared, in the most solemn manner, that he knew nothing about our escape, begged he might not be delivered iip to the governor; acknowledged he had laid a plan the preceding evening for our detention; wished Rais to leave the governor a small present, and proceed on the road towards Mogadore in the hope of finding us, saying, we must have gone that way, as the gates were shut on the other side, and there was no possibility of turning back by any other route. The Sheick added, “ I am in your power, and will gtr on with you and my friend Muley Ibrahim, without any attendants, to prove to you that I am innocent, and that I place the greatest confidence in your friendship.” Thus they agreed to pursue and endeavour to overtake the supposed runaway slaves; but soon after they had mounted the hills north of Santa Cruz, meeting our former masters, with Bel Mooden and Sidi Mohammed, who had seen us, (as I before mentioned) they stopped anid talked over their several aflairsi Sheick Ali insisted that Sidi Hamet had treated him very ill: that he and Seid owed him four hundred dollars, which they were to pay him on their return from the desart, but that they had passed by his lands three days’ journey with their slaves, without even calling on him to eat bread: he added, he would have gone with them himself, and with an armed force through Sidi Ishem’s country, to prevent that chief from taking their property—“ but you wished to cheat me of my money, as you did of my daughter,” said he, addressing himself to Sidi Hamet. Sidi Hamet, whose voice had been very high before, now lowering his tone, said, it was better to settle their disputes than to quarrel; so he acknowledged he owed his father-in-law three hundred and sixty dollars for goods, but asserted that they were not worth half the money: he would, however, pay the. principal, but no interest, which would have swelled the amount of debt to more than five hundred dollars; the Sheick agreed to take the principal, which was counted out in silver, as he would not take gold doubloons in payment, because he did not know their real value. He then delivered up Sidi Hamet’s bond, and said he would return to his tribe. Rais bel Cossim gave Muley Ibrahim a present in cash, and they separated, having first vowed everlasting friendship, and joined in prayer for the success of their several journeys.

Our company now consisted of Rais bel Cossim, Bel Mooden, Sidi Hamet, Seid, Sidi Mohammed, and three Muleteers, all armed with muskets, swords, or daggers—the five Bereberies with their camels who had brought us on from Stuka, and myself and four shipmates. We proceeded along the coast, sometimes on a sand beach, now climbing an almost perpendicular mountain of great height by a winding kind of zigzag road that seemed to have been cut in the rock in many places, by art; then descending into deep valleys by this kind of natural steps; the rocks on our right for a great distance, rising nearly perpendicularly. The path we were now obliged to follow, was not more than two feet wide in one place, and on our left it broke off in a precipice of some hundred feet deep to the sea—the smallest slip of the mule or camel would have plunged it and its rider down the rocks to inevitable and instant death, as there was no bush or other thing to lay hold of by which a man might save his life. Very fortunately for us, there had been no rain for a considerable time previous, so that the road was now dry. Rais told me, when it was wet it was never attempted, and that many fatal accidents had happened there within his remembrance ; though there was another road which led round over the mountains far within the country.

One of these accidents he said he would mention. “ A company of Jews, six in nunlber, from Santa Cruz for Morocco, came to this place with their loaded mules in the twilight, after sunset; being very anxious to get past it before dark, and supposing no other travellers would venture to meet them, or dare to pass it in the night, they did not take the precaution to look out, and call aloud before they entered on it; for there is a place built out on each end of this dangerous piece of road, from whence one may see if there are others on it: not being quite half a mile in length, a person by hallooing out can be heard from one end to the other, and it is the practice of all who go that way, to give this signal. A company of Moors had entered at the other end, and going towards Santa Cruz at the same time, and they also supposing that no others would dare to pass it at that hour, came on without the usual precaution. About half way over, and in the most difficult place, the two parties met—there was no possibility of passing each other, nor of turning about to go back either way—the Moors were mounted as well as the Jews—neither party could retire, nor could any one, except the foremost, getoffofhis mule: the Moors soon became outrageous, and threatened to throw the Jews down headlong— the Jews, though they had always been treated like slaves, and forced to submit to every insult and indignity, yet finding themselves in this perilous situation, without the possibility of retiring, and being unwilling to break their necks merely to accommodate the Moors, the foremost Jew dismounted carefully over the head of his mule, with a stout stick in his hand : the Moor nearest him did the same, and came forward to attack him with his scimitar: both were fighting for their lives, as neither could retreat—the Jew’s mule was first pitched down the craggy steep, and dashed to atoms by the fall—the Jew’s stick was next hacked to pieces by the scimitar; when finding it was impossible for him to save his life, he seized the Moor in his arms, and springing off the precipice, both were instantly hurled .to destruction—two more of the Jews and one Moor lost their lives in the same way, together with eight mules, and the three Jews, who made out to escape, were hunted down and killed by the relations of the 'Moors who had lost their lives on the pass, and the place has ever since been called “the Jews’ leap.” It is, indeed, enough to produce dizziness, even in the head of a sailor, and if I had been told the story before getting on this frightful ridge, l am not certain but that my imagination might have disturbed my faculties, and rendered me incapable of proceeding with safety along this perilous path. The danger over, however, and the story finished, we found ourselves mounting the first bank from the sea on Cape Geer. When we came on the height, at the pitch of the Cape, I rode up to the edge of the precipice to look down upon the tumultuous ocean. The present Cape is about one hundred feet in height, and appeared to have been much scattered and rent by the waves and tempests: huge masses of rocks had been undermined, broken off, and tumbled down one upon another, forming very wild and disorderly heaps in the water all around it. I could not help shuddering at the sight and sound of the surf as it came thundering on, and burst against the trembhng s-des of this rocky Cape, which is about a mile in length, and is already undermined in such a manner,that the whole road along which we passed will very probably soon tumble down among the assailing billows. On our right, the land rose gradually like an inclined plane, and was covered with pebbles and other round smooth stones that bore -strong marks of having been tossed about and worn by the surf on a sea beach: it rose thus for about two miles, when it was interrupted by perpendicular and overhanging cliffs of craggy and broken rocks three or four hundred feet in height: these rocks and the whole face of the upper Cape bore as strong marks of having once been washed and beat upon by the ocean, as did the cliff below us, against which it was now dashing with dreadful violence. Along most parts of the inclined plane, and particularly near the upper cliff, were large mounts of loose sand in form of snow drifts. This sand was now flying tip from the beach below, being blown out from among the rocks by the strong trade winds at every low tide, and almost as soon as the dashings of the waves among them had prepared it: this sand, and in fact all we had seen since we came to the cultivated country, was the same in appearance as that which we saw and passed through on the desart, and must have been produced and heaped up by the same causes. After parsing the Cape, about one hour’s ride, we came to the high bank of a river, and descending to its left shore, we found its mouth was filled up with sand that had been washed in by the sea, though the river was about half a mile wide at its end|, and appeared quite deep—here we stopped to take some food, namely, biscuit and butter.

Bel Mooden had also brought some dried figs, dates, and nuts. Having finished our repast, we were again placed on our beasts, and proceeded round the mouth of the river on a sandy beach, about one hundred yards wide, and twenty feet above the level of the fresh water within, and thirty feet above the sea water on the beach, at high tide. Our guides informed me that this river was called “ el wod Tensha that it had formerly been a very wide and deep one, and used to empty itself into the sea: that in the rainy season it was impossible to pass it without going twenty miles up the country; but for the last few years there had not been rain enough in this part of the country to force open its mouth.

Having left the margin of the river, we entered on a plain, and struck off to our right in a direction nearly east, and we went forward as fast as possible towards the high land. We had passed many sanctuaries, but had not observed a single dwelling house, nor even a tent, since we left Santa Cruz. We now beheld several square walled places, which answer the double purpose of dwelling house and castle, crowning the top of the high mountain, which appeared very dry and sterile, mostly composed of layers of huge rocks and very steep, with a few dry shrubs scattered thinly about the crevices and small flat spots or spaces. Approaching the foot of the mountain, we came to a very deep hollow, apparently formed by the washings of a small stream of water, assisted by rains that have poured through it from time immemorial. Our way wound up through this steep hollow, and alongside of the little brook before mentioned. As we entered it, the eye was delighted with the beauty of the scene. The bottom of the hollow had been made level by art, and was covered from its base with gardens, which rose one above another in the form of an amphitheatre: they were kept up to a level by means of solid stone walls laid in lime, and had been filled in with rich soil: the longest was not greater in extent than twenty yards by ten: the sides of the hollow were so steep, that the upright walls were not less than ten or fifteen feet in height between each garden: they were well stocked with most kinds of vegetables cultivated in kitchen gardens, and with melons: gutters were curiously disposed around these gardens to convey water to every part, at the pleasure of the proprietor: they had growing on their sides an abundance of fig and date trees, and grape vines running up the sides of the rocks; snd a little higher up, hundreds of the dwarf Arga tree, whose yellow fruit contributed to enliven the prospect. We were at least two hours in gaining the summit, when it had become dark, and we had to pass down the mountain on its eas^ide through another hollow, though not a fertile tine; for here was no running water. The narrow path we travelled in, had been worn into the limestone rock, by the feet of mules and horses that had passed along it, no doubt during the course of many centuries; and assisted by the rain water streaming through it from above, it was in some places channelled out to the depth of ten or fifteen feet, and just wide enough for a camel or mule to pass. In one place it became necessary, for the want of sufficient room to get through, to take the lading from the mules and carry it down by hand. After descending about three hours we canse to a plain, and kept on in an eastern direction until about midnight ; when we approached the walls of a small city, or dwelling-place, and took up our lodgings near it on the flat top of a long cistern, which afforded plenty of water. The chief men of the city, alarmed by the barking of their dogs, soon came out and welcomed their visitors by the well known Arabic salutation, “ Salerno Alikotn , Labez, &c.

They furnished our company with a supper of coos-coo-soo, while I and my men ate some dates and dry figs. The night was damp and cold, and this, with my fatigues, rendered it impossible for me to sleep. We stayed here for about three hours, when daylight appearing, (October the sixth) we were again mounted and proceeded on our journey. My companions, as well as myself, were so weak, being really worn out, and completely exhausted, that it was with the greatest difficulty they could be supported on the mules. As daylight increased, we saw a number of towns or dwellings handso^ly enclosed with high walls of stone, cemented With lime: the land on the plain was divided off and fenced in with rough stone walls made with great labour: numerous flocks of goats were feeding on the oil nut: some herds of cattle, with a few old horses, asses, and camels, were nibbling off the green leaves and branches of small shrubs, for the want of grass: we also saw many regularly planted orchards of fig trees; and the land was in many places ploughed and ready to receive the seed barley so soon as rain should fall sufficient to ensure its vegetation.

We went forward to the north-eastward, and on rising a hill, we saw two mountains before us to the north, over which I was informed we must pass: the farthest one north appeared to be twenty miles distant. We soon began to climb the nearest, and when we reached its summit, looking to the east, the Atlas was fairly in view, and Rll its lofty peaks covered with snow. Descending this mountain, we met large droves of camels, mules, and asses, laden with salt and other merchandise, and driven by a considerable number of Moors and Arabs: the Moors were easily distinguished by their dress: they had each, besides his haick, a caftan or close jacket next his skin, and the most of them had turbans on their heads: they were armed with daggers, or scimitars, suspended from their necks by a cord of red woollen yarn thrown over the left shoulder: the scabbards were such as I have before described— the dagger is worn outside of the haick; its handle is made of wood handsomely wrought: the point of the dagger hooks inward like a pruning knife: when they have occasion to use it, they seize it with their right hand, the lower side of the hand being next to the blade, and strike after raising it above their heads, ripping open their adversary: they never attempt to parry a stroke with their daggers.

The valley between these two mountains had been well cultivated, and would be very proditfctive with seasonable rains, but at this time those dreadful scourges, severe droughts, and myriads of locusts, had destroyed almost every green thing: even the leaves of the trees and shrubs had not escaped their devastations. I was informed by Rais be! Cossim that we were now-in the province of Hah hah , and that the locusts had utterly laid waste the country for the last six years, so that the land now groaned under a most grievous famine; nor could our company procure any barley or ether food for their beasts. This province must be naturally a very strong military country; it is very mountainous, and rendered almost inaccessible by the craggy steeps and narrow roads, or defiles, through which an army would be under the necessity of marching. The cities, or rather castles, in which the inhabitants reside, are built strong with stone and lime, and are fifteen or twenty feet in height, generally of a quadrangular form of from fifty to two hundred yards square, and the tops crowned with turrets: within these walls all the flocks and herds are driven every night for safe keeping. All the men in these parts are well armed with long Moorish muskets, and with sabres,.or daggers, by their sides: there are no Arabs dwelling in this part of the country, as they always live in tents, and will not be confined within walls; nor had we seen a tent since our arrival at the dwelling of Sidi Mohammed.

The valley now spread out to the right, and might be termed a considerably extensive plain, on which but few castles or dwellings appeared, and we saw no river or stream of water, though there were high mountains on both sides. The little herbage that had sprung up, in consequence of the recent rains, was destroyed by the locusts, which were to be seen thinly scattered over the ground, and rose in considerable numbers on our approach; skipping like grasshoppers. Rais bel Cossirn informed me that the flights of locusts, from which these few had strayed, had gone to some hitherto more favoured part of the country to continue their ravages.

While we were tranquilly travelling along, l asked Rais in what manner the oil was extracted from the nuts that grew in such quantities on the Arga tree, which entirely covered the sides of the hills. He told me that in the country these nuts were swallowed by the goats, (and in fact we saw these animals picking them up under the trees;) that the nut passes through,after being deprived of its bark, which though very bitter, was highly relished by the goats, and when voided, the women and children, who tend them, pick up the nuts and put them into a bag, slung about them for the purpose, and carry them home, where they crack them between stones, get out the kernel, and expressing the oily juice from them, they boil it down in ajar, until it becomes of a proper consistence, when it is poured off, and is fit for use. The appearance of this fruit growing thickly on the trees, different in size, and variegated in colour from green to red, and from that to bright yellow, had a pleasing effect: the ground beneath the trees was also covered with them.

Having come to the foot of the high mountain, we ascended it, winding up its steep side in a zigzag path, very difficult of ascent, anil indeed almost impracticable. On our left was a deep gully, with a considerable stream of water running down through it, like a small mill-stream: it poured over the precipices, making a loud roaring, that might be heard at a great distance; though the whole stream seemed to lose itself entirely in the sand before it reached the bottom of the mountain. The sides of this gully were shaded by the Arga and bean tree, and many other bushes, and near the water I discovered a few yew or hemlock bushes, that reminded me of scenes I had been familiar with in my own country. As we rode near the top of the mountain, this gully assumed the appearance of a rich valley, filled with gardens one above another, supported by strong stone walls in the same manner as those I have already described, though much larger, and they were apparently well watered by the stream that was carried around them in gutters fitted expressly for that purpose. These gardens looked as if they were well cultivated, and stored with vegetables, and numbers of men and boys were at work tilling and dressing them.

On the highest part of the mountain that we reached, I was much surprised to find a considerable plain spot, nearly covered with |tacks of salt, which stood very thick, and must, I think, have amounted to several hundreds. To see marine salt in such quantities on the top of a mountain, which I computed to stand at least fifteen hundred feet above the surface of the ocean, excited my wonder and curiosity; but we stopped short of them, for the camels we had started with from Stuka, were to carry loads of this salt b,ack; so that after Rais had paid the owners of them for their trouble and assistance, they went towards the salt heaps, wishing us a prosperous journey. While we were stopped to settle with them, we were taken from the mules and seated on the ground, when many of the inhabitants came near to have a look at us, Christian slaves. They brought with them a few raw turnips, which they distributed among us: they were the sweetest I had ever tasted, and very refreshing. We were soon placed upon the mules again, and I rode a little to the left, in order to find out in what way this great quantity of salt had been procured and deposited in this singular situation; and on a near approach, I saw a great number of salt pans formed of clay, and very shallow, into which water was conducted by means of small gutters cut for the purpose in the clay. The w'ater issues in considerable quantities from the side of the mountain, in the N. W. part of the plain, (which has been levelled down and regulated with great labour,) and is very strongly impregnated with salt: the pans or basons being very shallow, the water is soon evaporated by the heat of the sun, and' a crystallization of excellent salt is the result. It is small grained, and tinged by the reddish colour of the clay of which the pans are formed. The highest peak of the mountain did not appear to rise above the salt spring more than about one hundred feet: a great number of men and boys were employed in raking and heaping up the salt, and numbers more in selling and measuring it out and loading it on camels, mules, and asses. Rais bel Cossim informed me, that this spring furnished the greatest proportion of the salt that is made use of in the Moorish dominions, and in Suse; and I should estimate 4 the number of camels, mules, and asses that were there at that time waiting for loads, at from four to five hundred. We had met hundreds on the route since we left Stuka, loaded with this article, and I afterwards saw many loads of the same kind of salt enter Mogadorc, or Swearah, Saffy, and Rabat.

We proceeded to the northward down the mountain, which is not so steep on its north as on its south side. The country, after descending it, was tolerably smooth, with much of the Arga wood flourishing on every side. Soon after dark we came to a wall that enclosed a space of ground forty or fifty yards square: it was built of stone and lime, six or eight feet in height, with an open space like a gateway on its northern side, through which we entered and took up our lodgings on the ground, which was very smooth. A walled village was near this yard on the west, and on the north, outside of both walls, stood a mosque or house of worship: the inhabitants were chanting their evening or eight o’clock prayers when we entered the yard; yet none of them came out to look at us, their attention being wholly confined to their religious duties. We were taken from the mules and placed near the wall, which kept off the night wind, and after we had nibbled a little biscuit and drank some water, we thanked God for his goodness, and tried t® get a little sleep. The wind did not molest us, and we rested until about midnight, when we were awakened by the noise occasioned by a company of men with loaded camels and mules: they had already entered the yard without ceremony, to the number probably of thirty men, with three times as many camels, mules, and asses. I was awakened by the bellowing of the camels, as they were forced to lie down with their heavy loads;—the men did not speak to ours, and as soon as they had tethered their mules, by tying ropes round their footlock joints, and fastening them to pegs driven into the ground for that purpose, they laid themselves down to sleep, wrapped up in their haicks.

Our whole company being awake, they saddled their mules, put us thereon, and we proceeded on our journey. It was very dark, and the path lay through a rough stony country. We were so weak, that we could not sit on the mules without one being behind to steady our tottering frames; at daylight we found ourselves near some substantial buildings, and I begged of Rais to buy some milk if it was possible: he rode near the gates and asked some of the inhabitants for milk; but they would not sell any. This to me was a sore disappointment, as I was benumbed with cold, and so much fatigued, that 1 thought it would be impossible for me to ride much further; which Rais observing, said to me, “ keep up your spurts, Captain, only a few hours longer, and you wilFbe in Swearah if God Almighty continues his protection.” I was so reduced and debilitated, that I could not support even good news with any degree of firmness, and such was my agitation, that it was with the utmost difficulty I could keep on my mule for some moments afterwards. We had been constantly travelling for three days and most of three nights, and though I concluded we must be near Swearah, I did not think we should reach it before late in the evening. Passing along a narrow footway between high bushes, we came to a long string of sand hills on our left, drifted up like the sand heaps on the desart, and along the coast: it was then about eight o’clock in tHe morning, when mounting the side of one of those hills, the city of Swearah broke suddenly upon our view, with the island of Mogadore, forming a harbour, in which was a brig riding at anchor with English colours flying:—■“ take courage, Captain,” said the good Rais ; “ there is Swearah,” pointing towards the town; “ and there is a vessel to carry you to your country and family;—if God please you will soon see the noble Wiltshire, who will relieve you from all your miseries—I thank my God your sufferings are nearly at an end, and that I have been found worthy to be an instrument in the hands of the Omnipotent to redeem you from slavery.” He next returned thanks to the Almighty, in Arabic, with all that fervour and devotion so peculiar to Mohammedans, and then he ejaculated, in Spanish, “May it have pleased Almighty God to have preserved the lives of my wife and children.

We now proceeded down the sand hills towards the city—-but very slowly. Sidi Hamet had been for some time missing: he had gone privately forward to be first-to carry the news to our deliverer of our approach; and now Bel Mooden and Sidi Mohammed left us for a similar purpose, and made the best of their way towards the city. It would be idle forme to attempt to describe the various emotions of my mind at this exquisitely interesting moment: I must leave that to be conceived of by the reader. We soon approached the walls of an imperial palace, which is situated about two miles south-east of Swe- arah, or Mogadore.—The walls are built in a square of probably one hundred yards at each side, and about twenty feet in height—they enclose four small square houses, built at the four corners within, and which rise one story above the walls: the houses have square roofs, coming to a point in the centre, and handsomely covered with green tiles—they, as well as the other walls, are built with rough stone, cemented with lime, plastered over and whitewashed.

Near the western angle of the walls we stopped, and were taken off our mules and seated on the green grass. A small stream of fresh water, running from the east,was spreading over the sand near its northern wall, flowing and meandering slowly towards the bay over the beach, in a number of small rills. The water in the bay was quite smooth; small boats were moving gently on its glassy surface, or were anchored near its entrance, probably for the purpose of fishing; this, together with the sight of great numbers of men driving camels, cows, asses, and sheep, and riding on horses, all at a distance, and going different ways, together with the view of the high steeples in Mogadore, infused into my soul a kind of sublime delight and a heavenly serenity that is indiscri- bable, and to which it had ever before been a stranger.—The next moment I discovered the American flag floating over a part of the distant city: at this blessed and transporting sight, the little blood remaining in my veins, gushed through my glowing heart with wild impetuosity, and seemed to pour a flood of new life through every part of my exhausted frame. We were still seated on the green sward near the western wall, and the mules that brought us there were feeding carelessly before us at a little distance. Our deliverer, who had received news of our coming from Sidi Hamet, having first directed the flag of our country to be hoisted as a signal, had mounted his horse, ridden out of the city, and came to the eastern side of the palace walls, where Rais bel Cossim met him—unknown to me.—I expected him soon, but did not think he was’so near: he had dismounted, and was prepared to behold some of the most miserable objects his imagination could paint—-he led his horse along the south angle and near the wall: Rais was by his side, when opening past the corner, I heard Rais exclaim, in Spanish, “ Alla estan”—■“ there they are—at this sound we looked up and beheld our deliverer,who had at that instant turned his eyes upon us.—He started back one step with surprise. His blood seemed to fly from his visage for a moment, but recovering himself a little, he rushed forward, and clasping me to his breast, he ejaculated, “ Welcome to my arms, my dear Sir; this is truly a happy moment.” He next took each of my companions by the hand, and welcomed them to their liberty, while tears trickled down his manly cheeks, and the sudden rush of all the generous and sympathetic feelings of his heart nearly choked his utterance: then raising his eyes towards heaven, he said, “ I thank thee, great Author of my being for thy mercy to these my brothers.”—He could add no more; his whole frame was so agitated, that his strength failed him, and he sunk to the ground.—We, on our part, could only lookup towards heaven in silent adoration, while our hearts swelled with indiscribable sensations of gratitude and love to the all wise, all powerful, and ever merciful God of the universe, who had conducted us through so many dreadful scenes of danger and suffering; had controled the passions and disposed the hearts of the barbarous Arabs in our favour, and had finally brought us to the arms of such a friend. Tears of joy streamed from our eyes, and Rais bel Cossim was so much affected at this interview, that in order to conceal his weeping, he hid himself behind the wall; for the Moors, as well as the Arabs, hold the shedding of tears to be a womanish and degrading weakness. After a short pause, when Mr. Wiltshire had in some measure recovered, he said, “Come, my friends, let us go to the city; my house is already prepared for your reception.”—The mules were led up, and we were again placed on them and rode off slowly towards Mogadore. Mr. Savage and Clark were on one mule, and Burns and Horace on another, for the purpose of mutually supporting each other; but their debility was such, that they fell off on the beach two or three times before they reached the city;—however, it was on the soft sand, and as they were very light, they seemed to have received no material injury;—they were again placed on the mules, and steadied until our arrival at the gates of Swe- arab? by Moors walking beside them. The gateway was crowded with Moors, Jews, and negroes—the news of our coming having spread through the city, add a curiosity to see Christian slaves, had brought them together in great numbers; and the men and boys of the rabble were only restrained from committing violence on us, by the gate-keepers and a few soldiers, who voluntarily escorted us to Mr. Willshire’s house, and in some measure kept off the crowd: there we were taken from our mules; but some soldiers coming in at that instant, said it was the Bashaw’s orders that we should appear before him immediately, and we were constrained to obey: it was but a few steps, and we were enabled to walk there by supporting one another. When we came to the door, we were ushered into a kind of entry-way, which served as an audience chamber, by Mr. Willshire’s Jew interpreter, who in token of submission, was obliged to pull off his cap and slippers before he could enter.—We were ordered to sit down on the floor, and we then saw before us a very respectable looking Moor, of about sixty years of age: he was sitting crpss-legged on a mat or carpet that lay on the floor, which was terrace-w’ork, drinking tea from a small cup—his dress was the haick. After he had finished his cup of tea and looked at us a moment, he asked me, through the interpreter, what countryman I was ? where my vessel was wrecked ? how many men I had in all, and if the remainder were alive ? how long I had been a slave, and if the Arab, my last master, had treated me kindly ? He wanted, further, to know how much money from my vessel fell into the hands of the Arabs, and what other cargo she had on boards Having satisfied his inquiries in the best manner I was able, he said we were now free, and he would write to the emperor respecting me and my men, and hoped he would give us leave to go home to our country:—he then dismissed us. Mr. Wiltshire was with us, and answered all the questions the Bashaw chose to put to him, and then assisted us in returning to his house.